Day 13 dawned clear off Barnstable, but there wasn't much wind, and what there was came from the north-northwest. I was pessimistic about getting anywhere, and resigned to spending the day exploring yet another unplanned-for harbor, namely Barnstable. But Ishmael was keen to forge ahead, even if it meant beating tack upon tack up Cape Cod Bay. After all, with two of us, it wouldn't be so difficult. His enthusiasm proved contagious and so we weighed anchor and set off.
Our faith -- well, Ishmael's faith -- was quickly rewarded by a strengthening breeze that also conveniently backed into the west, so we scooted up Cape Cod Bay uneventfully at four knots or so and came coasting into Provincetown harbor and anchored just after dark.
Provincetown is an interesting place. The structure shown above is the Pilgrim Memorial, and if it reminds you a bit of the Palazzo della Signoria in Florence, it should -- the latter is below:
Who, I wonder, thought that a knockoff of a mediaeval Italian building, from a time and place steeped in Popery, would be a suitable memorial to the Pilgrims? If any Pilgrim shades should revisit the town, just to check up -- what would they think of this oddball tribute?
They might not be too concerned. They would have other things to scratch their ectoplasmic round heads over. Shopfronts in Provincetown frequently display merchandise like this:
... and there was a very buff chap in the street, wearing a maillot bathing suit and promoting a show by a group called "The Nellies". "You'll eat it right down to the stick!" he promised.
It was kinda nice -- like being back in New York, though not on the upper West Side.